We leave the Macaine property, which I did not describe. Liliane and Jacky Macaine bought a small modern house, barely twenty years old, in a place called Croix Mathieu, one kilometer from Martel. The place itself is very old and is located on one of the older roads to Saint Jacques de Compostela.
It's a very nice house and fortunately, we had it to ourselves since Liliane and Jacky had no other guests during our stay. Their peak season is during the months of July and August. They are very friendly and talkative, which means that each breakfast turns into a long, very pleasant conversation. Jacky is a wonderful storyteller and Liliane knows everything about the area, as she was born here. On the second day, I happen to mention that I like to eat lots of fruit (French breakfasts very rarely include fruit). Liliane offers me a banana. The next morning, there is a small fruit platter on the table.
From their place, we enjoy a lovely view of the valley.
Like yesterday, the weather is very nice, the sky is perfectly clear, with the temperature expected to reach 85°. We decide to make it a slow drive to Albi, stopping here and there. In fact, our next hosts have asked us not to arrive early because she’s having lunch with her mom for Mother's Day, which is today in France. We will go through Gaillac and St. Antonin-Noble-Val, two places on Roger’s list of must-sees.
Along the way, a sign, Castle Montricoux. OK, fine, let’s go.
Er.
Everyone and their mom is out today because, hey, the weather is very nice, the sky is perfectly clear, with the temperature expected to reach 85°. In all entrances to the village of Bruniquel, cars are jampacked on both sides of the small roads.
Hmmm.
What I did see.
Roger won’t give up (do I really need to write that?) He wants his picture of the castle on its rock. We park along the road a little farther along and he walks back. The God of Lenses is a very demanding god.
But hey, like yesterday, the weather is very nice, the sky is perfectly clear, with the temperature expected to reach 85°.
He got his castle picture.
Back on the road. It twists and the drops are so deep that they installed protective fences, rather low. I really mean it, fences. In France, what a concept!
Although not advertised, a ruin which makes the photographer very happy. Even happier because there’s nobody around.
Close by, a cemetery where a large stone stands side-by-side with the humble wooden cross and its small bunches of flowers. It should be noted, though, that large stones are family stones, with more than one person being memorialized.
Larroque, its back to the cliff. On the right, it,s not a ruin, it's a bell tower. And it just rang the half-hour, really loud.
We enter a small bar, Bistro du Pays, where a sign offers a €7.5 day platter.
As we come in, the maître d’ who also acts as a waiter, greets us and asks if we had booked (this should have been a warning for us about the €7.5 meal but there you go). As we say that no, we haven’t, he winces a bit, then invites us to follow him. Four people who had booked not having shown up, we get their table. A little later, we hear a group of six being turned back, sorry, we’re full. A little later, a couple gets the table next to ours.
I sit, I get my iPad out. The head waiter comes to the table to take our order.
- And what is this wonderful machine?
- It's an iPad.
- And what is this iPad?
- Well ... that's it.
- And what does it do?
- Um ... do you know the iPhone?
- No.
- Do you know the iPod?
- No. And you, Madam, do you know the call of the deer?
(There you go, it’s started, the joke is going to be on me, I just feel it) He fetches a large watering can and yells very loud in its opening. It produces a loud sound quite like the call of a moose. We laughed, we applauded. Truculent, the gentleman.
Our intention was to have a long drink of some light stuff, probably water, and eat very little, perhaps even share the day platter. Unfortunately, the restaurant has one menu for Mother's Day, and it is a festive menu $$$$. Though I agree it is very good:
Pâté
Endive with Roquefort, accompanied by mushrooms and croutons and bacon (the servings are huge and we could stop there, really)
Deer stew (I had never tasted deer and it’s good - no, it does not taste like chicken)
Cheese (we skip it, we’re dining with out hosts tonight)
Pear cake, soaked with pear brandy. I eat a third of my piece.
Adding a draft beer and a glass of Perrier, we end up with a €50 bill. Too much for what we had in mind but quite acceptable for the meal we did have.
A few kilometers further, and one hundred fifty meters above, there’s Puycelsi, a small village in the mountains. A spectacular view from the road. A little more commonplace when get to the village itself. I wanted to add a Web link, I couldn’t find the same view.
We’re staying tonight at Paradis Vert in Laboutarié. Near Graulhet, thirty kilometers from Albi, it’s a very small town, not very rich, where yesterday afternoon (Sunday), it was impossible to find any place to buy water. The Total gas station itself was closed. A young woman sees us looking bewildered, and kindly brings us a bottle of tap water from her home, with two plastic cups.
Christine's house is not old and it’s surprisingly cool even though it’s not air-conditioned. Double glazed windows, electric shutters. Don’t let in the heat. The 85° temperature forecast has been reached. We relax and rest until dinner. Pâté again, stew, couscous gratin, fresh goat cheese on toast with syrup (I thought it was the dessert, Christine laughed) and raspberry mousse with custard. Tomorrow, we swear, we will not eat.
Weather: like yesterday, the weather was very nice, the sky was perfectly clear, and the temperature did reach 85°.
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